Working With Sustainable Cellulosic Fibres

Understanding what cellulosic fibres are as a designer will pave the way towards a better understanding of the raw material you’re working with: from the characteristics to its origin. You’ll be better equipped to work with fibre and fabric production facilities due to the knowledge you’ll have, and be better placed to judge the sustainability and ethics of what you’re intending to work with. Not only that, but having the fundamentals will give you an opportunity to think outside of the box in terms of material innovation or creative design.

Tune in to this lesson on what cellulose is, with a breakdown of the most common natural cellulosic fibres including how they are processed for production, where they are mostly grown, the global output and issues surrounding sustainability and ethics.

Now that you understand what a cellulosic fibre is, along with the feedstock sources of natural cellulosic fibres, we'll now dive in to what the man-made, or regenerated, cellulosic fibres are.

There are arguably more environmental issues involved in the production of man-made cellulosics, due to chemical input and strain on ancient forests, while natural cellulosics would arguably be more framed by ethical considerations due to the impact on smallholder farmers and traditional craft textiles. This lesson explores certain issues surrounding man-made cellulosic fibres, along with some innovations in play to improve this hefty textile market.

All of the takeaways can be found in the handy downloadable guide below.

One of the key sustainability issues around the use of wood pulp for the production of fabrics like viscose and lyocell is the destruction of forests that are impossible to replace. But what if there was a waste material that we have a vast quantity of already that could replace wood pulp in the cellulosic fibre process?

We are thrilled to present the Circulose arm of the Swedish re:newcell project that takes discarded clothing and turns it into a brand new cellulosic fibre. In this lesson, you'll learn more about the material, the science behind the process and why it is sustainable.

There are an array of exciting innovations taking place in the cellulosic materials space and PYRATES Smart Fabrics materials company are one to watch. Their natural, smart fabrics have been developed to protect and care for the body while leaving a minimal impact on the planet and its resources.

We were delighted to be joined by Mery Díez Herbosa from the PYRATES R&D and Production department to explain more about how vegetal, biodegradable and upcycled fibres can be transformed into luxury knit fabrics.

A beautiful story of textile designer Maria Cuji working with artisans in her native Ecuador to learn their skills with processing toquilla and chambira palms for textile fibre, and contemporising the methods for an increased awareness of these indigenous communities and the crafts passed down through generations.

Simon Cooper, co-owner of Flaxland in the Cotswolds, UK and farmer of linseed and flax, explains what the benefits of growing flax are for the purposes of increasing resilience, building biodiversity and nourishing both soil health and our health. 

Simon also works wood and is crafty with materials and uses his skills and knowledge to create composite fibre canoes out of his own fibre and oil. He and his wife Ann conduct workshops to increase awareness around the flax cottage industry, from growing to weaving, and the additional products you can get from this magnificent heritage crop.

Thumbnail image: Ian Paterson on www.wildflowerfinder.org.uk

Cotton has long been relied on as a staple material for the fashion industry. However, it is not without its ethical and sustainable challenges. Finding new alternatives that decrease our reliance on cotton is one of the most essential things we - the fashion industry - can do to improve our environmental impact. In this lesson, we look at new materials presenting an alternative to cotton.

Next-generation solutions use waste materials to create low-carbon alternatives to virgin raw materials, such as tree fibre from Endangered Forests and synthetics made from non-renewable, polluting sources. This not only eases the burden on natural raw materials but also helps stabilise our climate and preserves biodiversity.

Based on the idea that trees are ‘renewable’ and ‘carbon neutral’, unfortunately, one of the most pervasive myths today suggests that logging more trees to produce textiles is the answer to our sustainable sourcing needs.  Get the low-down on man-made cellulosic fibres and why sourcing materials from trees might not be as sustainable as it sounds.

It is possible to source Manmade Cellulosic Fabrics (MMCFs) responsibly. Thanks to a number of certifications, audits, and online resources, sustainable fashion brands can check the credentials of their man-made fabrics... and discover new alternatives.