Spring Summer 2022 Colour And Material Trends: Premiére Vision
A look at the key themes and trends within fabrics and materials from Premiére Vision Spring Summer 2022 (February 2021). "Eco-responsibility" was centre stage across all areas, so read on to understand how the textile production industry is changing.
Key words: circularity, sensual, sustainability - provocative
Key themes: "Erotica-Green" and "Digit-reality" - pleasing online and offline, tactility of sensuality
Colour: disruptive, peaceful, joyful - broad colour range
- Teasing glitz - stand out, it is unapologetic and glittering
- Virtuoso gloss - a love match between sporty and silky, with dynamic drapings
- Dazzle dazzle - richly decorated, maxi-mini silhouettes, voluptuous, flirty glitz
- Infused revelries - fusing digital with dreaminess, RGB tones, diffused pastels, sporty silhouettes
- Exuberant origami - material has expanding effects, tactile textiles without the need for additional embellishments, high-performance silhouettes, 2D graphics but 3D effects in prints
- Juiced-up rustic - importance of physical contact, trippy vegetation
- Excessively rustic - oversized weaves, emphasised grains, irregular yarns, slubs
- Indigo retour - denim in elegant classic silhouettes
- Sexy freshness - cosy materials with cut outs, vitamin-rich colour ways
- Sensual fluidity - subtle flirtiness, blurring the lines of indoor and outdoor wear
- Caressing transparency - city chic offers new erogenous zones with plays on transparency to reveal and unveil, sports knits
- Cuddly sensations - tactile properties, crepe, fancy yarns
- Solar softness - technical silky fabrics, bleached fluid stripes, sueded skins
- Erotic green - revealing laces, sustainable dyes
- Virtuoso tech - protective but light, soft silky tech allowing for volume to be created
- Emotional fluidity - smooth comfortable tailored looks, draped silky feels, fantasy jacquard motifs
"S/S 22 demonstrates its appetite for simultaneously seductive and responsible fashion. The ecological advances achieved with raw materials and across all processes have resulted in developments that are even more specialised and creative."
Sustainably smooth - adoption of textures that are pleasing for the body and environment. Low chemical impact of fibres and yarns. Naturals gain softness from their raw state while artificials (lyocell/viscose) quest for traceability. Vegetable tanning highlights intrinsic sensuality of skin, with richer handles and sophisticated appearances.
Eco flexible - recycled elastanes have progressed in technical textiles, especially for sports, outdoors or swimwear. Specialists in circular knits have strong jerseys and interlocks. Tanneries have adopted elasticity, producing metal-free stretch leathers for creating garments that fit like a second skin.
Respectful fashions - ecological products no longer restricted to having a basic appearance meaning very fancy products are staking their claim for festive occasions. Prints, embroideries, laces and jacquards multiply their ecological properties, with new finishes like bio-polyurethane coatings. Veg tanned leathers with ornamentation. Metallic accessories explore greener galvanisation techniques. Buttons and buckles are made in bio-polymer resins. Transparencies with a rich, syrupy appearance.
Benevolent fluffiness - lightweight fabrics and leathers with a fresh and comforting feel. Fleeces and towelling take on summer softness in organic cotton or lyocell, ramie or pineapple fibre blends. Veg tanning in leather has been developed to give sponginess. Metal-free suede leathers are developed in ultra-lightweight densities and offer luminous acid-bright colours.
THEME: SEEKING CIRCULARITY
"S/S 22 is uncompromisingly seeking more sustainable qualities, circular and transparent production models. Première Vision’s partners combine their research and take their innovations even further to develop products with enhanced eco-responsibility along the entire production chain."
Eco & Hemp - at the starting point for eco-responsible textile development is the choice of greener fibres. Hemp = easily traceable, with cultivation requiring little irrigation and low levels of pesticides. Its environmental advantages, its climatic properties and its seductive natural appearance are the reasons for its increasing presence in collections. Notable this season is the multiplication of compositions with a hemp base. From the spinning stage, it is combined with organic or recycled cottons, recycled synthetics and FSC or ®Refibra viscoses. The fabrics retain their vegetal appearance but the handle is more supple. Jerseys and fleeces reveal finely slubbed or marl appearances in their natural state.
Organic & recycled - organic cottons combine with various recycled fibres, from ®Refibra celluloses to second-generation polyesters and polyamides, and especially with recycled cottons. Tanneries are innovating and diversifying the types of skins produced from the reuse of waste from the agri-food industry, producing full grain rabbit leather and marine leather from salmon and sturgeon. Recycled materials are used in accessories. Matte hemp, cotton and recycled paper buttons. Recycled paper and recycled polyester for labelling.
Fewer chemicals - from the raw material to the finishes, industrial companies are raising their standards. Optimised dosages, less-polluting components, mechanical embellishment procedures. Green solutions extend to all types of products, cellulose fibres, denim fabrics, digital prints, dyes and treatments for natural or synthetic fibres. In leather, solvent-free finishes or without heavy metals. The use of plant-based waxes enhances the visual aspect of noble skins. Functional accessories, zips and metallic elements, combine traceability and finishes with a reduced chemical impact.
Greater biodegradability - compostable properties of certain bio-polymers and polyesters. Blends of natural materials and plant-based artificial fibres also encourages biodegradability. New leather treatments adopt biodegradable formulae that allow the organic elements to disappear faster without leaving harmful traces in the environment. Metal-free tanning is turning towards biodegradable polymers. Vegetable tanning has perfected its compositions, accompanied by dyes and finishes that are ever cleaner. In accessories, compostable packaging is diversifying so corn-based biopolymers are becoming more frequent.
Silkies, laces, embroideries, designs, prints and jacquards
Key words: Extrovert, provocative, comfortable, light and soft
Key themes: bold colourations, lightness of textures, accumulated techniques
- Plant graphics - graphic spirit in forthright colorways, flat tints, petals are generous to heighten the visual impact. Summery combinations, lively and iridescent harmonies, blends of silk and sustainable traceable viscose. Offbeat nature, occasionally veering into more figurative and naive interpretations.
- Bold geometry - decadent look with nod to the Sixties, flashy pop-hued prints in contemporary freshness. Recycled polyester crepes, all-over motifs on silks and eco-friendly viscose. Playful combinations.
- Striking stripes - return of stripes for SS22, yarn-dyed bayadere stripes are strong, wide and clear-cut, meticulous, evenly-spaced stripes. Charming lightness on cotton voiles and refined linen blends.
- Underwater escape - poetic escape to warm sands, with prints, embroideries, jacquards and laces referencing the sea, fish, coral, algae, crustaceans. Shifting knits and fabrics, shimmery tulles, sequin embellishments. Metallic jacquards, meticulous patterns.
- New horizons - decorations express the shade of a palm tree, warm breezes and turquoise seas. Cut-yarn jacquards to impress cityscapes. Warm tones reveal yellow-orangey color schemes. Linen bases spell dry landscapes. XXL patterns.
- Spring bouquets - joyful spring-time bouquets, with mini petals on cottons. Embroideries, tulle and voile are delicate. Prints showcase accumulated techniques, with over-printing on eyelet and sequinned fabrics conveying a strong vitality.
- Transformed flowers - seductive visual flowers with intense colourways of reds, pinks and purplish tones. Added-up prints, cut-yarn jacquards, metallic yarns and embroideries. Enlarged sizes and modified shapes of flowers lending a Garden of Eden feeling to decoration.
- Enticing vegetation - almost edible look of plants, with intertwining stems. Red and pink tones symbolic of passion. All-over patterns on solid weaves.
- Printed circuits - inspired by the digital world, jacquards, lace and embroidery are all about a connected experience. Copy-and-pasted visual shapes. Joyful and sumptuous with carefully affixed sequins, vividly-contrasting ornaments and pixel-like prints on embroideries. Laces with glittering yarns.
- Digital gradations - luminous flashes. An artificial atmosphere inspired by video games. Patterns have fun playing with contrasts.
Knits, plain and fancy wovens, silkies, shirtings, tailoring and technical fabrics.
Key words: voluptuous, tactile, supple, fluid
Key themes: lighter weights give freedom of movement, enlivened surfaces light up the summer, playful and transparent reveals
- Voluptuous fluidity - caressing touch, an essential freedom of movement, and an attractive appeal when worn. Feminine silkies and knits glide due to silk or viscose blends. Shirtings, casual fabrics and suitings say farewell to rigidity and hello to lightness. Blends of natural and artificial fibres = fuller, more dancing and dynamic silhouettes.
- Structured transparencies - enjoying the outdoors with technical performance fabrics and functional products but with maximum fineness i.e. translucent. Synthetic ripstops and voiles shed their weight. Knits, silkies and shirtings look delicate but have solid construction. Openwork playfully reveals and discloses. Ribs lend a stripey look to transparency, or there are woven or embroidered crisscross designs.
- Glittering sparkle - iridescent surfaces in cottony and silky plains, lamé shirtings, gem-like effects enhance knit fabrics, shimmering fancy tweeds. Fresh pastel shades and spongy yarns. Lace and embroidery have a metallic glint.
- Lineny elegance - natural charm from suitings to silkies, with clearly perceptible irregularities of plant fibres. Linen fibre knits and jerseys take on a lustrous look. Yarn-dyed men’s suitings and shirtings. Slubbed effects lighten wools. Tennis stripes, windowpane checks and semi-plains are both elegant and rustic. Dense silks and viscose blended with linens, hemps and ramie point to silhouettes marked by a chic and natural suppleness.
- Indigo detours - a denim influence is overtaking plains outside of jeanswear. Indigo knits and shirtings cast a vote for tops with a Japanese accent. Suitings evoke denim weaves. Embroideries and jacquards are washed-out.
Knits, plain and fancy wovens, silkies, shirtings, tailoring and technical fabrics.
Key words: lightness, airy, delicate, freshness
Key themes: optimism, shivering textures, graceful delicacy
- Neo-piqués - richness to textures of knits, perfect for outer-layers, jackets and rainwear. Complex weaves retain an outward simplicity. Mathematically-precise textures contrast with the suppleness of knits, and structure the fluidity of silkies. Freshness of cottony products pares down the volume.
- Slight shivers - seersucker everywhere even in silkies. Ingenue freshness in fabrics intended for swimwear, dresses and jackets. Waterproof and wind-stop technical textiles have wavy textures to enliven outdoorwear. are enlivened by fine wavelets, for livelier outdoor wear. Knits are crinkled giving an arty naive look.
- Nuanced paleness - softness and luminosity of fabric surfaces with delicate tones. Chambray spirit influences jacket and shirting linens, and brightens suit fabrics. Over-exposed washes for clean casual garb and freshly-worn look. Yarn-dyed shirtings and knits look almost light-filtered, with stripes and checks blurring into an overall pale effect.
- Densified fineness - strong and lightweight, compact and malleable plains. Woven and knit structures are invisible. The use of stretch adds density. Impeccable finishes accentuate smooth uniformity of surfaces. Double-knits, performant triple-layers with the look of fine suitings, and dynamic, floaty cottons and wools convey elegance despite lack of formalism.
Key words: tactile, eco-responsible, sensorial, bold
Key themes: bold textures, noticeable irregularities, sustainable innovations
- Luminous interferences - skins are embellished by luminous interferences, with mother-of-pearl effects, small grains, crumpled reliefs, embossings and ornaments.
- Washed freshness - soft, washed, drummed skins with shady, cloudy and softened colours. Effects of wear and tear create sensitive patinas, with finely sanded finishes on smooth nubucks and embossed bleached suedes radiating lightness.
- Deliciously juicy - generous softness that stimulates the senses, with lightly-oiled suede appearances, lightweight hand, glossy shines.
- Softened sensuals - vegetable-tanned leathers embrace the eco-responsible interest to enhance softness and increase range of use.
- Versatile fluidity - fluid sensuality of finer leathers with supple skins for garments: flowing lamb leathers, creamy suedes and nubuck lamb leather with a dry, slightly crispy texture.
- Eye-catching textures - expressiveness of natural grains, embossed reliefs, firm and round metal-free or vegetable tanned leathers. Finishes with a reduced chemical impact, solvent-free. Mattified metallizations and waxy, silky or more oily, slippery shines.
- Moulded firmness - fine and compact skins have structure and flexibility for rigid products. Lamb leather with a crispy, papery feel. Goat leathers are decorated with a glacé pearl finish. Stretch leathers developed using vegetable-tanned lamb leather.
- Malleable architectures - perfectly-placed decors are muted in contact with soft lamb and calf leathers, where a matte finish predominates. Structures are rounded, volumes inflated. A seductive approach with supple weavings and undulating laser cut-outs.
Key words: ethereal, luminous, light, textured
Key themes: composite structures, eco-responsible vegetal technology, visual disruption
DYNAMIC TRANSPARENCIES: Shifting opacities - Textured, opacified, milky or crystalline, shades of translucence.
DYNAMIC TRANSPARENCIES: Fake invisibles - accessories play with our perceptions and pretend to disappear. Only the coloured rim of a button remains visible, complex facets are revealed through iridescent gleams. Recycled polyester resins and plant-based bio plastics take centre stage. The internal mechanism of zips and stoppers becomes a decorative element.
AUGMENTED REALITY: Virtual fluctuations - metallic and holographic highlights, mattified iridescence and softened technical shines. Colour gradients that are revealed through movement. Lurex thread in ribbons, anodized metallizations on buttons and iridescent labels.
AUGMENTED REALITY: Digital folk - a contemporary reworking of folk motifs with sequence-like lines of computer code, pixilation and graphic deformation. Digital decoration on buttons, and jacquard patterns of textile accessories.
Modulate-compose - new and atypical forms through reconstructed modules, forms are fragmented and hollowed-out. A playful geometric approach with effects of constructed micro-threads, netting, multi-pane checks and honeycombed structures in textile accessories.
INFUSED SOFTNESS: Powdery sensuality - powdery surfaces with an irregular appearance, with a makeup-like mattness and soft harmonies in pastel shades. Sustainable developments with bio-sourced components and recycled paper. Speckled powdery textures that appear to be sprinkled or velvety, pillowy, marshmallow appearances.
INFUSED SOFTNESS: Solar gradients - softness in colour gradients to evoke summer sunsets. Natural wear and tear, subtle decolouration and solarized effects.
Seductive nature - extraordinary vegetation made of fluffy and tentacular structures, ornamental decorations, animal and floral mutation in embroidery. Sustainable materials reveal a fanciful vision of the ecological conscience.
Modern craft - modernised and refined rusticity, magnifying simplicity of natural materials to get to their essence. Lace, cords and braids display their irregularities with refinement. Wood aspects, undulating natural textures and artisanal know-how are an inspiration for accessories with a reduced environmental impact.
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